In the heart of Manhattan, amid the bustling streets of Broadway and 32nd Street, lies an unexpected culinary sanctuary, accessible through an unmarked door on the northeast corner. This covert entrance leads to the marble-clad dining area of Nōksu, a new Korean fine dining restaurant poised to revolutionize the concept of luxury dining in a subway station.
Operated by Bobby Kwak and Joseph Ko, the masterminds behind Baekjeong and Sundaes Best Gelato businesses, Nōksu promises a dining experience like no other. With Per Se alum Dae Kim at the helm of the kitchen, patrons can expect a symphony of exquisite flavors crafted with precision and expertise.
Despite its unconventional location, Nōksu aspires to compete with the crème de la crème of fine dining establishments in the city. The 12-course tasting menu, priced at $225 per person, showcases a meticulously curated selection of dishes. From the indulgent brown crab and turnip-seaweed tart to the innovative salmon roe with herb sorbet and saffron, each plate is a testament to the culinary artistry that defines Nōksu.
The clandestine nature of Nōksu adds an element of intrigue to the dining experience. Much like its predecessor, La Noxe, which garnered a 1,500-person waitlist for its subway-level speakeasy cocktail bar, Nōksu benefits from the allure of secrecy. Securing a reservation grants patrons an exclusive pin code, providing access to this subterranean culinary haven.
Overcoming challenges posed by the absence of gas in space, the Nōksu team has demonstrated their ingenuity and commitment to their vision. Kwak's personal connection to the metro station—he has been passing by the barbershop for decades—adds a special touch to the project. "What a cool, unusual space," he muses, encapsulating the essence of Nōksu's unique charm.
As the Martinique Hotel presides above the restaurant, the MTA oversees the subterranean entrance, ensuring compliance with city maintenance standards. Kwak's meticulous attention to detail even extends to the installation of custom drains, preparing the eatery for the dynamic demands of the cityscape.
Looking ahead, Kwak envisions expanding his subterranean empire with the Garden of Eve Dessert Haus, set to open in 2024 with a hotel entrance. This new venture promises a dessert omakase counter and an array of delectable Asian sweets kiosks, further solidifying Kwak's commitment to basement New York.
In a city known for its culinary diversity, Nōksu emerges as a beacon of innovation and creativity, challenging traditional notions of fine dining. With its hidden location and unparalleled gastronomic offerings, Nōksu invites adventurous epicureans to embark on a culinary journey like no other. Make your reservation online and discover the magic that lies beneath Herald Square.
