In the realm of global gastronomy, few restaurants generate as much anticipation and buzz as ILIS. Founded by Noma alums Mads Refslund and Will Douillet, ILIS is not just a dining destination; it's a groundbreaking experience that aims to elevate every aspect of the culinary journey. As the restaurant prepares to open its doors in the heart of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, a sneak peek into its avant-garde approach reveals a culinary adventure like no other.
The dining experience at ILIS begins with a theatrical presentation by a cook clad in a moss green uniform, introducing the first course, a clam drink served on a crushed ice-lined gueridon cart. The presentation showcases New England-sourced scallops, oysters, unripe strawberries, and a vibrant green mignonette, setting the stage for a culinary journey with tart and earthy flavors reminiscent of a Michelada.
Chef Mads Refslund, co-founder of the renowned Noma, brings his two decades of culinary expertise to ILIS. The restaurant, named after the Danish words for "fire" and "ice," represents a departure from traditional fine dining. Nestled in a repurposed 4,500-square-foot rubber factory warehouse, ILIS embodies a vibey, earthy-toned ambiance that complements its innovative approach to cuisine.
Refslund has doubled his kitchen staff in response to Noma's service model, which replaces traditional waitstaff with chefs who carry dishes directly from the kitchen to the dining room. This unique structure allows half of the team to work in the kitchen, while the other half manages orders and serves guests in one of two dining formats – a $275 tasting menu with rotating courses or à la carte options.
Refslund explains the rationale behind the dual dining format, stating, “It's the way I like to eat myself. Sometimes I like to choose my own dining experience, and sometimes I like to leave it in the hands of a capable chef.
For à la carte diners, the freedom to choose meal length, ingredients, and cooking preferences is paramount. The menu features an array of seafood-focused morsels, including Pacific Northwest mushrooms served raw and shaved or grilled with maitake and chanterelles in a creamy fermented mushroom sauce. Larger share-style dishes, such as sous-vide-cooked brown trout, showcase the meticulous attention to detail in the culinary process.
ILIS' open kitchen, designed around a sleek, modern workspace, contrasts with the dining room's raw brick walls and unfinished wood ceiling. U-shaped tables and counter dining spaces surround the kitchen, creating an intimate setting. The bar and lounge area, serving natural wine and botanically-minded beverages, exudes a laid-back, bohemian vibe reminiscent of Tulum, Mexico, where Refslund spent a decade intermittently.
ILIS not only boasts a customer-forward dining system and imaginative, rustic meals featuring exclusively wild and sustainable bison and venison, but it also curates an atmosphere of easy, laid-back cool. As ILIS makes its mark in the culinary world, it is evident that the alignment of front-of-house and back-of-house elements has created a dining experience akin to catching lightning in a bottle—a testament to the team's success in creating a truly exceptional establishment.
